What is purging? Myths and truths

Hi, everyone. First off, sorry for my long hiatus from blogging, and I am so sorry if I have ignored your emails and comments. My email account that was associated with this blog has been hacked, and it has taken me this long to recover the email address, and to continue posting. I will try to improve my email security in the future so that this do not happen again. I have attended a few beauty seminars in Korean and Japan, and met with a few renowned skincare experts there. I couldn't stop nagging them with a lot of different questions, and I am bursting to share the new information with you! In addition, I have also tried a lot of new products, some of which are just genius/wonderful, and I really want to share all the reviews with you. 
One of the questions I get asked most often is whether breakouts after initially switching to a new product is "purging, and how long "purging" is supposed to last. I feel that purging is one of the most confusing skincare concepts, and often misused by sales assistants to persuade you to stick with a product that do not work. In this article, I wanted to share a few facts about purging to help you: 1. recognize purging; 2. know when to expect purging; and 3. debunk all the myths of purging. 


What is purging?: Purging, by definition, means the skin's action of getting rid of excess sebum or "gunk" in the skin, generally through the process of breaking out. Many people allege that they experience purging when they try a new product that causes breakouts initially, but works well eventually without causing further breakouts. However, not all of those reactions are actually purging. Sometimes, the initial breakouts experienced when trying new products may indeed be the new products working to rid the skin of all the "gunk", before making skin better; however, other times, the initial breakouts may just be the skin's way of getting used to the new products.


Differentiating between purging and skin's initial adjustment period to a product: As mentioned before, there are two main reasons why a new product would cause breakouts on the skin initially, but stop causing breakouts after some time of continued use: purging and reactive skin. Purging occurs usually when someone uses a product that is supposed to help with acne, generally cleansers, exfoliants, and other topical acne medications (such as salicylic acid, retin-a/tretinoin, and benzoyl peroxide). The product may work by first lifting the impurities from the skin, such as the gunk in clogged pores. Sometimes, the gunk comes out easily, while other times, the gunk may have a difficult time being expelled from your pores, causing a whitehead or a inflammatory pimple. This is not really supposed to happen with non-medicated moisturizers or foundations. 


Reactive skin also causes breakouts (as well as maybe red patches or other symptoms) when you first start using a product, and the breakouts may or may not subside after a time. This is because some of us has skin that is rather sensitive and reactive, especially those of us using acne or other topical medications that thins the top layer of skin (such as benzoyl peroxide). The thinner the top layer of your skin is, the more you may be prone to sensitive or allergic reactions to a product. Unlike purging, reactive skin can occur with a full range of skincare and facial makeup products, from cleansers to concealers. 


What products generally cause purging: Products that are most prone to causing purging are products containing topical acne medications and products that are supposed to help with acne. Some examples are a new scrub, a new toner containing salicylic acid, and a new moisturizer containing benzoyl peroxide. Do not stop using a product simply because you are purging. Once the purging period is over, you may (or may not) receive the clearer skin the product promises. 

How long to expect purging to last: This is a really hard question and differs from person to person. It depends on how fast your skin reacts, and also, how serious your acne was before you started the new product. For example, a person who had a full face of clogged pores may experience more purging than a person only suffering from a blackhead on the side of his/her nose.


How long to expect reactive skin to last: This also differs from person to person, depending on the sensitivity of your skin and the products you are trying. I sometimes experience no reactions from new products, sometimes I experience one single breakout, and sometimes, I may have to wait for 2 months before a product starts working for me without causing trouble. 

Am I purging or having reactive skin or is this product simply causing me to break out?: As mentioned before, the type of product you are experiencing with gives a clue about whether you may be experiencing purging. It is more difficult to differentiate between reactive skin and simply breaking out. For a lot of people, this simply turns into a waiting game to see if their skin bounces back after a time. 
Sometimes, you may be able to tell based on your skin's past reactions. For example, if I am reacting to a product, I would generally experience inflamed pimples. If a product is simply too rich for my skin, I would see whiteheads and clogged pores. And if I were purging, I would see whiteheads and some inflamed pimples where clogged pores used to be. 

How to reduce the symptoms of purging and reactive skin:  There is no way to skip right through the purging or reactive skin phase, but you can make the symptoms milder by easing in a new product. When I start using new products, I never start using a few new products all at once. I ease them into my routine one by one. I generally experience the least reactions this way, and also, if a product were causing me trouble, it is easy to pinpoint which product it is. I also start using a product very slowly. For example, if I were trying to introduce a new cleanser into my routine, I would substitute it for my original cleanser twice a week or begin with, and slowly increase the frequencies until it completely replaces my original cleanser. 

Skincare and Beauty Product Expectations

If you are a beauty junkie like me, you have likely tried many many different skincare products in your life time. You have products that you genuinely like, but you may decide to switch when the next new and great things come along, ignoring principles like "If it ain't broken, don't fix it". Sometimes, after spending a lot on the new products, you suddenly discover that it is nothing special, and did not deliver the results it promised, or horror of horrors, it made your skin worse. Do not return, throw away, or generally dispose of that product yet! One question we need to ask ourselves before deciding to give up on another product is: Have I given it enough time to work? In this article, I will answer a few FAQs about using new skincare products, and share the "product trying timelines" I use for each different type of product.



Why your skin may appear worse when you first start a new product: I get a lot of emails with different variations of this question, generally saying "I have just started using XYZ product, it does not seem to be working for my skin. My skin has become (insert symptom, including dehydrated, oily, rough, dull, broken out)." I am very sympathetic to the difficult phase of when one tries a new product, so I would like to share the answer with all of you:
Your skin may appear worse because you have stopped using a product that has been working for you, and started a new one whose benefits has yet to kick in. I realize that many products promise permanent results, but the fact is, the results you receive from most beauty products begin to diminish as your use of the product ceases (with anti-aging products being an exception). However, keep in mind that if you experience worse skin, the symptoms should intensify during the first few days of trying a new product, rather than popping up the very day of trying a new product (with the exception of acne in reactive skins). For example, skin may become rougher and duller because your previous skincare products contains acids or other forms of chemical exfoliants, but it will happen in the span of around 3 days to a week.
Cleansers: If all you were expecting from a cleanser is to get your skin clean, you can expect the cleanser to work right away if it is going to work. However, if you are expecting anti-aging or acne-reduction benefits from your cleanser, please follow the guidelines below for that specific category.

Exfoliants: You should see softer and more glowy skin right away. However, full benefits should occur after half a month to a month of consistently using the product. If your skin appeared to be red and irritated (especially from a chemical exfoliant), your skin may become more used to an exfoliant after a period of use (ranging from a week to as long as 6 months). However, the most discomfort you should experience is flakiness or a burning sensation. Anything more than that would mean that you are allergic to the product, and therefore, you should discontinue use.

Moisturizers: If all you were expecting from a moisturizer is higher levels of hydration, you should see some benefits right away or several hours after application, with full benefits following after around 1.5 months of use. If you want brightening, anti-acne, or anti-aging, please follow the guidelines below for that specific category.

Anti-Aging Products: Anti-aging serums are an entirely different matter. By anti-aging, we mean age-prevention, which category generally consists of antioxidants and sunscreen/sunblocks. You are not supposed to see a lot of results from anti-aging serums because their effects are meant to be seen in the future. Therefore, unfortunately, you have to be very very careful in choosing products in this category, because you cannot use your skin's reaction as a guide to how well the product is functioning. I will do two articles on antioxidants, and sunscreen filters in the near future. However, some people do see some benefits from anti-aging products, such as plumper skin, or most frequently more radiant skin. This is because some antioxidants can repair some damages done to your skin in a very short period of time prior to using them.

Anti-Acne Products:  Anti-Acne products are by far the most tricky, probably because acne is a tricky condition by itself. Many times, you may see your skin become worse before it gets better in this category of products, because some anti-acne products may bring to surface all the pimples that are forming deep in your skin, this is often called "surging". This type of products may take from 1 day to 6 months to work. However, you should be able to see a lessening of "bumps" on the skin, otherwise known as clogged pores. 


Skin Plumping Products: This really varies by the type of product. For some products, you can see results from the first day, and for others, you can see results after a few months. It is best to ask the person you are buying the products from if they are the "authorized sellers". However, it should take at least 1.5 months for full benefits to develop for this type of products. I must also admit that skin-plumping products is not my "area of expertise", so I cannot go deeper into this type of products.

Skin Tone Improvement Products: This is also a tricky category. It is generally hard to see an effect after the first use, and many people become discouraged easily. I tend to allow for 1.5 months in order to see some slight slight improvements (unless the product promises otherwise), and if I see no benefits, I generally discontinue use unless I'm also using it for some other benefits.
Makeup: For makeup, of course, you should see benefits right away, unless you are expecting some skincare benefits from those makeup. "Makeup" benefits are defined as immediate benefits that can get washed away, and "skincare" benefits are defined as long-term improvements that will persist.

If you have sensitive or reactive skin: It is common to experience surge of pimples or redness when first using the product. However, be careful to avoid products that cause clogged pores, which generally show up as flesh colored bumps on your skin that is not inflamed, because clogged pores are not caused by the initial adjustment period. They are caused by heavy ingredients in the product incompatible with your skin type.

"It gets worse before it gets better products": There are a few categories of products that may make your skin get worse before it gets better. Generally anti-acne and exfoliants. One of the most famous/notable products in this category is Retin-A. It is a retinoid, and is used for acne, but it is also the only FDA-approved ingredients that reduces wrinkles. It may sound like a magical product, but in the beginning stages, many people experience acne, red, scaly, flaky, peeling skin.

Allergies: Do not mistake an allergic reaction to some products as the harmless initial reactions that will go away. You know your skin best, so you should be able to tell what types of allergic symptoms you are prone to. However, as a general rule of thumb, unless you are experiencing pimples, you should generally check whether you are allergic through googling or consulting your physician/dermatologist.

What is the proper way to wash your face?

Many of you have asked me about acne problems as well as many other skin problems. I actually think that the most important aspect of skincare is not actually the expensive moisturizers or serums, but cleansing. This is because cleansing is the foundation of a good skincare regimen and without it, all the rest of your efforts may tumble. A good cleansing routine keeps your pores unclogged, which prevents acne and lets other products (serums, moisturizers, etc) absorb better.

What You Need:
1. A gentle cleanser, preferably one without SLS:
A gentle cleanser may not be as satisfying as a harsher one (you don't get a very clean feeling), and may not produce as good initial results as a harsher one, but in the long run, you are doing your skin a favor by using the gentler cleansers.
I have personally used some of the harshest cleansers there is in my teenage years. I remember for a week, I used a harsh scrub containing Salicylic Acid, immediately followed by a 10% benzoyl peroxide cream cleanser. My skin felt so dry after using this combination, and it did somehow prevent acne for a week for me. After that, my skin got so oily as to become very unsightly and I also developed acne.
Later on, I stopped stacking the two cleansers together and used the benzoyl peroxide wash alone for a year. It was not as stripping as that combination, and after a while, my skin does not feel dry after cleansing anymore, but I noticed that my skin produced more oil, and I responded by leaving the cleanser on my skin longer and longer. That was one of the biggest mistakes I made, and it took my skin a year to return to its normal oil production level.

2. A soft and clean washcloth:
This is rather optional actually. For years, I had no washcloth, and just pat dry my face after cleansing if I had time, or leave it to dry (or wipe the excess water off with toner on a cotton pad) when I'm in a hurry. It worked fine for me. However, I started using a washcloth a year ago, and I noticed the difference.
I don't use the washcloth while washing the face. I generally wash my hands, apply cleanser to my face, massage around, wash my washcloth while leaving the cleanser on, and then rinse off and pat dry with the washcloth. This has not made a big difference in my skin but does help me get ready faster in the morning. This will be essential for people who are living in areas with contaminated or hard water, because you'll want the water off your face as soon as possible.
If you do decide to use a washcloth, please clean regularly. The washcloth will accumulate the oil, bacteria, and impurities your cleanser got out from your skin. It is best to use a clean one everyday, and toss the dirty one into the laundry if you can afford it. However, if you are just using it to pat dry (like me), washing the wash cloth daily and then doing major cleanings weekly would be fine since when the washcloth come in contact with your face, your face is relatively clean.

3. Clean luke warm water, general running water is fine unless your water is very hard:
This seems basic. However, I have found that luke warm water is essential. You do not want to shock your face with too cold or too hot water, which may result in broken capillaries. Yes, cold water wakes one up in the morning, and yes, hot water makes one's face feel cleaner, but I'd rather forgo those benefits for beautiful skin.

How to clean your face:
1. Make sure your hands are clean: I generally wash with anti-bacterial soap before touching my face.
2. Put a drop of cleanser in your hands: This is important. Do not use too much cleanser. It is a waste, and can overdry your face. I have found that a pea-sized amount is generally fine for most cleansers. Or if you are using a bar cleansing, running the bar through my hands twice is enough for me.
3. Lather up the cleanser in your hands (foaming cleansers): Many people like to apply the cleanser straight to the face and lather up on the face. This is admitted easier. However, it is gentler to your face if the potential chemical reaction of cleansers interacting with water, and foaming up happens on your hands.
Or skip to step 4 if you have a non-foaming cream cleanser
4. Apply the foam to your face and massage or if you have a non-foaming cleanser, apply the cleanser to your face: Gently apply the foam or cleanser to your face, and massage with the palms of your hands. Massaging with fingers is tempting because it is easier, but palms are gentler. Massage around for a minute or half a minute depending on whether your skin is dry or oily or sensitive. The more oily your skin is, the longer you have to massage, unless your skin is oily because of overdrying.
5. Optional: leave the cleanser on face for less than a minute: Take this step if you have time in the morning or if your skin is extra-oily. I sometimes leave my cleanser on for a mini-facial when I think I need special cleansing power
6. Rinse off: Gently splash luke warm water (slightly warmer than room temperature) to your face to rinse off the mixture. I like to splash at least 9 times without touching my face, and rinse with my hands to make sure I get everything the last time. If I don't, I'll splash some more.
7. Pat dry with a clean towel/washcloth or with your hands or a cotton pad

The Big Beauty Debate: Is Toner Necessary?

I am sure most of you have heard this debate: is toner really necessary or is it just a big waste of money? I cannot resolve this question since many beauty experts cannot agree on this. However, I can put all the facts in front of you so that next time you are at a beauty counter, you can decide whether to hand your credit card over for that bottle of liquid for yourself. The fact is, toners actually do have many functions, but they are usually used to supplement cleansers and moisturizers. And the cleanser and moisturizers nowadays have become far more developed that their past counterparts, so much so that toners are not necessary with some cleansers and moisturizers.
In this article, I will share with you the several functions of toners, and whether they are still useful today.
Main Functions of Toners:


1. Adjusting the pH or acidity of skin: I think this is one fo the most important functions of toners, and surprisingly, one of the most neglected. In the past, most cleansers are soap based, which are too alkaline, and the use of acidic toners adjust the pH value of skin to a comfortable level. This minimizes irritation, which may cause acne or lead to sensitivity.
However, many cleansers nowadays are formulated to be near the pH value of skin, which makes toners unnecessary. On the other hand, there are still a lot of cleansers on the market that need the follow-up of a toner, so if you are not sure whether your cleanser is formulated to have the "right" pH value, I would advise you to err on the side of caution and use a toner.

2. Removing cleanser residue: Once again, many cleansers of the past were made of soap formulas, which may leave a film on skin that cannot be rinsed off. Toners generally remove that film. Nowadays, most cleansers are formulated to not leave any unwanted residues. However, sometimes, people are in a hurry in the mornings, and do not rinse off their cleanser well enough (I know this sounds ridiculous, but I know several people in my family who does exactly that. One generally needs 8 splashes of water to get the cleanser off, and a survey showed that most people only splash about 3 times). This is where toners come in handy.


3. Astringent: This is probably the most famous function of toners in the US, and actually the most abused. Toners formulated with ingredients like alcohols can act as astringents, not only removing any impurities on skin, but also any sebum or oils. Many teenagers believe that this is good for acne prevention because afterall, acne is caused by a clog of oils in the pores. However, removing all the oil is still not suggested for acne-prone skin because skin would feel dry and would compensate by over-producing oil, which is even worse for acne. None of the toners I have ever used have the functions of astringent.

4. Making Moisturizer easier to absorb: This is a major sell-point of most Japanese and Korean toners. They claim that their toners and moisturizers are supposed to work together so that the small particles of toner brings in the larger particles of moisturizer, which makes moisturizers easier to absorb. I have personally found this to be true of my Laneige White plus Renew and Mamonde Pure White toners. However, many of the moisturizers marketed today are nano-particled, which makes toners a little obsolete in some cases.

What I think of "marketing ploys" of toners:
1. Delivering Moisture:  All right, I admit it. Toners can deliver moisture, and I have seen a lot deliver moisture quite well, such as the Sofina Jenne Lotion II. However, I think delivering moisture is the moisturizer's job, and one wouldn't need to buy a separate toner just to do that.

2. Delivering this and that nutrients essential for skin health: Toners often are marketed to deliver Vitamin C or vitamin E or botanical extracts etc etc to skin. I admit that toners may contain such nutrients, which may be better absorbed in a toner form than a moisturizer form. However, I think such properties should be more suited to serums for the reason that the nutrients are better absorbed in serums. Think about it, a serum is designed to be pat into the skin in a light, easy to absorb liquid; while toners are mostly designed to be wiped across the face on a cotton pad. Wouldn't it make more sense for precious nutrients to be delivered via a serum rather than wasted on a cotton pad?
In addition, few toners can have "toning" abilities if it is loaded with nutrients because many nutrients can mess up the pH value of toners, and may make a toner too rich to properly remove the impurities it is supposed to. In addition, the way one applies a toner means that it is roughly swiped across the face, which applies more pressure than when one applies a serum, and may cause clogged pores.

Overall: I personally buy toners when a product line is marketed with one. However, I understand what I am paying for, and know that for the simple functions of a toner, I do not want to spend more than $30 on it.

Antioxidants, Retinols, and other active ingredients: a major discourse on the Western and Asian notions of skincare

It never ceased to amaze me the differences of Asian and Western skincare. Being an Asian who was born in the US but travels back to Asia frequently, I grew up under this difference. My grandmother, an Asian from head to toe always told me the Asian way of skincare, and my mother, a scientist in US always told me the American way. Both have gorgeous skin, so I never really knew who to listen to. Now that I've grown up, I have two dermatology doctors, one in the US, and one in Korea (the Korean one cannot really be defined as a dermatology doctor because this occupation is not prevalent in Korea, but he is a very well respected beauty specialist). I've hired them so that I can have beautiful skin, and finally know whether my mother or grandmother is correct, and guess what? I was only introduced to more controversies.

My American dermatologist has always told me to use tons of active ingredients in my skincare. He started me off with antioxidants when I was 16, plans on starting my retinol care when I am 27 and using a peptides cream when I turn 33. He introduced me to Benzoyl Peroxide, Sulfur, and Salicylic Acid when I had pimples (and yay, I have finally successfully went off Benzoyl Peroxide), and told me I can wear as much makeup as I want as long as I took it off properly at night. He introduced me to a lot of great masques that are very effective and quite pricey. He would have let me use a skincare line with a lot of active ingredients (skinceuticals) if my mother hadn't bulked and bought me Mamonde instead.

My Korean derm has always told me to be gentle to my skin, steer clear of active ingredients (except for a very select few), and use as little makeup as possible. His motto can be somewhat translated as "Don't fake it if you can't make it". He introduced me to a lot of great masques that I can only make at home, and insists on having me use skincare that is as simple as possible. He makes his own skincare, most of which has 5 ingredients at most, and he has great skin. His latest action is to start me off on Japanese horse oil, which I know is quite controversial as an animal lover, and jojoba oil. He knows me well enough to understand that I would never really use an oil as an moisturizer exclusively, but he highly recommends doing so.

Antioxidants was just another great area for them to disagree over. My American dermatologist and many other celebrity dermatologists believe antioxidants are essential at night because it absorbs any damages the UV rays or other free radicals have done to you during the day before it damages the deeper layers or your skin and your genes. Therefore, to him, it is never too young for anyone to start antioxidants care, especially in this environment we have.
My Korean derm was annoyed that my American derm started me off on an antioxidant as early as I was 16, telling me that people should not use antioxidants unless they know they have been in the sun without protection, and even then topical antioxidants should not be used very often, only in emergencies. He compared antioxidants to Benzoyl Peroxide, which if you read my earlier articles, caused me quite a lot of pain since even though it cleared my face, gave me post-inflamtary hyperpigmentaion. He told me that antioxidants are great for the skin while handing me a glass of soy-milk (which is another decision my Korean derm made for me: go off milk, which contains lactoise which might be harmful for some people's skin, and instead drink soy milk which is full of isoflavons and benefits) and a pomegranate. He told me that antioxidants should be eaten, and not applied topically. He told me that it is always better to eat my way to beautiful skin than eat a big Mac (and I saw him frowning for the first time, something he never does in the name of beautiful skin) a day and apply antioxidants and other stuff on my face and eat the condensed Vitamin C and vitamin E pills, which he said can cause cancer and is hard to be absorbed. He told me that he tells all of his favorite clients that the best way to have great skin and stay fit is to drink soymilk in the morning with two boiled eggs, drink 16 glasses of green tea everyday instead of water, and eat a huge serving of raw fruits and vegetables at lunch and dinner before eating anything else. He said that by the time he finishes his fruits and vegetables, he rarely have any room left for him to eat anything else.

I've been trying this diet those past weeks and I haven't had a breakout in 2 weeks, and I have lost 8 pounds. I am really happy, but I still don't know whether I should stop using antioxidants topically even though I am sure I eat more than enough everyday now. What do you think?

Update for going off Benzoyl Perxoide--a month later

I'm still in Korea, still with little time to post, but I just wanted to share my progress on going off Benzoyl Perxode with you, since a lot of people emailed me about it. You can see the original post here
I would like to stress once again that the fact I get post inflammatory hyperpimentation from benzoyl peroxide may not be a universal experience, but I think a lot of people experience it since 90% of my friends who went on benzoyl peroxde reported the same to me. Secondly, I do put on sunscreen while using benzoyl peroxide, since I use sunscreen religiously anyway. Thirdly, I'm not on any birth control pills or any other things that is prone to cause hyperpigmentation.
Okay, now that that's clear, I would really like to share my progress with you! :)
When I posted last time, I got mostly clear skin, but now my skin is even clearer, kind of similar to when I was using benzoyl peroxide. When I am really stressed out or stay up late for several nights in succession, I would get breakouts (which I also did while on benzoyl peroxide), but the breakouts would be about 1.5 more than when I was on benzoyl peroxide. The happy news, however, my skin is finally able to let all the acne mark traces fade within 5 days. For example, I got a big pimple three days ago, while staying up for another board meeting, and now you can't really detect it. I hope that by tomorrow morning, no traces of it will be left.
I also experienced some other things while going off benzoyl peroxide, but I wasn't sure that it was purely coincidental. However, now after I asked several of my other friends who are also trying to go off benzoyl peroxide, they told me the same thing: hands and necks, which touched benzoyl peroxide before seems to be much more acne prone for a month. I got those tiny tiny white heads on my hand even though I never did before. It wasn't a lot or really gross or anything, just bizarre. :)

Oh, and in my last post, I teased you with the promise that I got of lot of stuff in a neighboring country, that country is Japan! I got a lot of skincare items, sekkiso, horse oil, sofina jenne, curel, etc. :) I'll be reviewing them soon! Japan also has a lot of very very exciting makeup that I want to share with you too.
The upsetting part is that I feel so old when I was in Japan...I don't know why since I'm probably one of the youngest in my firm. I think maybe the mini skirts, cute hairstyles, and kawaii tops got to me...I was wearing this boring business suit while girls around me are so flamboyant, even the few business associates I met with! I have undyed waist long black hair which is un-banged, unlayered. At worst, people say my hairstyle is archaic, and at best, classic...This business associate I met with insisted on introducing me to her stylist, and she had quite fashionable red tinted blond hair with long layers, and cute bangs. I was really tempted to have her go at it, but when she told me I should have shoulder length hair, I found an excuse to say that I have to go, etc And so I dragged this friendly associate with me to the department stores to do a lot of shopping! :)

Greetings from Korea and an announcement!

Hi, girls, I'm sorry for not posting for days. One of my most loyal readers, Diana, asked if I'm all right in Korea since I haven't been posting. Thank you, Diana. Yes, I'm all right, just really busy. It's not as bad as several days ago, when I had to stay up nights, but Koreans, at least the Koreans in my company are a very friendly people, so I tend to go out every night to dinners and gatherings held in my honor. When I get home, I'm usually exhausted from trying to speak Korean. A few of the things we do is shopping, eating, drinking (soft drinks), and singing. :) I love love the shopping part, since they introduce me to a lot of well kept Korean beauty secrets while shopping (this and that product that can only be found in a dark corner of a certain store, but almost everyone they know use it, etc.) and the clothes are great. Eating is even better. I get to eat all I want until my stomach is full, and manage to lose weight. Koreans have such a healthy way of eating. It seems that for every bite of meat I eat, I eat 5 times more vegetablels, which makes it very healthy and fullfilling. I love the soft drinks, the smoothies, the bubble teas, and the fresh squeezed juices, even though I learnt Koreans prefer to have real fruits rather than the juices. Singing is the embarrasing part. I know few Korean songs, and it would be tacky to sing American songs. I've since mastered the song "I believe" from My Sassy Girl, and the two songs in the Korean drama "Full House". Those are the only songs I can sing, but I'm getting into Korean music. It sounds more melodic than some of the rock music we Americans have. :) I think I might have to be here for another two weeks, but I don't mind.
I've gotten more cozy with my coworkers now, and I often go for visits to their homes. (Some people who have read this blog for a long time know that the last time I was in Korea, it wasn't really pleasant because I had to dismiss a worker who's badmouting the company and handle all the loose ends his libel did. This made my coworkers wary of me at first, but I found that being friendly really helps.) I found that it seems like Korean women love beauty  products. The average size of their stash should be twice or three times the size of our average stash. However, there is one major difference: the bolt of their stash focuses on skincare. I asked at first if they found their HG skincare products. They didn't understand what I meant. At first, I thought it was a language barrier, but gradually I understood that they are not loyal to their skincare products. They do something called "multi-playing". They keep using the products they love, but they also keep getting new products. Most of my coworkers switch skincare products weekly or prevent their skin from getting too used to certain products, or even becoming dependent on them. They think that skin will gradually develop immunity to products if they don't switch them. I found this quite an interesting theory, and a theory many Americans won't buy. I asked a good friend to ask at makeupalley's makeup board, and everyone said that that in this day and age, skincare would contain ingredients that become less effective over time. There were quite a few LOLs.
I still don't know what to believe, but I think there would be no harm in trying new skincare products, would there? Maybe this is just a well developed excuse for Korean women to keep on getting new products, but they have beautiful skin, so maybe there's some merit to this theory? Anyway, I have been persuaded to start trying more and more skincare products, while still using my trusty Laneige. This way, I can share more skincare reviews with my dear readers, and might also find another HG for myself in the process (though I doubt I can really find something significantly better than my favorite Laneige. :P  I already bought a lot for myself on a trip to (guess where? It's a country really close to Korea famed for their beauty products and the home of a few really famous big name brands even here in the US), and they are awaiting a review from me as soon a I get home. :)

How to go off Benzoyl Peroxide and why I did it?

You must be surprised to see this cleanser on my blog, since I rarely use any American products, and when I do, it's mostly cosmetics, but I actually have used this cleanser for more than 2 years, and have just stopped  using this recently. NOTE: I'm writing this article as a tip for how to go off on benzoyl peroxide cleansers in general, not just this cleanser, but I'm using this as a specific example.
Why I started using this product: Call me stupid or short sighted, but in my teenage years, I was really bothered by the few pimples that I had (which come to think of it, wasn't really a lot, around 3 or 4 weekly). I found this while going grocery shopping with my mother, and then went home to check on the reviews. I told my mother I wanted to add this item to my skincare, and she tried to persuade me against it. She told me that it is true that this product will give me clearer skin but at a cost, that benzoyl peroxide will dry out my skin and age it in the long run. I was young then, and asked her simply "how much would it age me? Would I be getting wrinkles prematurely? By how many years?" My mother said perhaps 2 to 3 years. At that time, I thought why not? I can have truly clear skin for a long time at the cost of getting wrinkles 2 to 3 years earlier.

What this product did to me: Since I'm writing a tutorial on how to stop using similar cleansers, you must think that I hate hate this product and it's horrible. The fact is, I can't really hate it. It did everything it promised to do: cleanse your face and stop acne. But then, it did not say what it might cause: hyperpigmentation. When I first started using this product, I enjoyed perfect skin for 3 months. Then I got a huge pimple on my cheek. I tried to get it to go away quickly, but it wouldn't. It stayed on my cheek for a whole week, and when it finally began to get smaller, I found that it's leaving behind quite a dark purplish red mark. I was horrified. I had pimples before, but when they are gone, they are gone.... A month passed with no incidents, while I tried to fade the mark, and then I one day tried on a base makeup product. I felt my face gone itchy and red that afternoon, and developed pimples the next day. A week later, those pimples left more marks. For a while, I was obsessed with finding a solution to fade hyperpigmentation, and was really tempted to try hydroquine even though I know it would cause more trouble for me in the future. I ended up using natural remedies: yogurt masks, honey masks and sticking to my skincare. Half a year later, the marks faded. For two years, I never suspected this product was the culprit. Last summer, I was bitten by a mosquito, and someone told me that using this wash to wash the affected area will numb me from itching. It did, but I found that the mosquito bites took a month to fade, whereas it usually take three days, and I still have some hyperpigmentation from the spots left on my arms.

How I discovered this was the culprit: I was on a trip and I forgot to bring this cleanser. I went to Yosemite falls the first few days and couldn't find a drugstore for miles, so I just used another cleanser. I wanted to buy another tube of this as soon as I get out of Yosemite falls, but when I only got a few whiteheads that disappeared the next day, I thought I'd wait till I get home. That was still a lot for me, since while using this cleanser, I rarely got pimples at all, maybe monthly. But I managed to persevere. Miraculously, the pimples I got that week didn't leave marks on me at all and got better the next day usually. I thought about it: either it was the California climate, the stress free life, or the wash. I decided it was the wash, and decided to eliminate it from my regimen.

Why? How does this work?: First off, BP is a really effective over the counter acne medication because it kills the P-bacteria that causes acne. Salycic Acid also works, but is less effective and more gentle in my experience, since it is basically a chemical exoliant. Now, why did BP do this to my skin? Apparently, BP generates free radicals which harms skin, and slows down the healing process of the skin. It may reduce collagen production in rare cases, which is why it might cause premature aging. The reason that my pimples last longer and leave hyperpigmentation is simply because this medicine makes them take longer to heal.
Now the main course: How to go off a cleanser with BP:When I got back from the trip, I decided to go back on to the cleanser, and slowly ease off it, in order to get less pimples (I was optimistic and thought that I was getting one or two pimples a day on that trip because I went off BP too suddenly). And I was right. I was using it once a day at night for two years, so I gradually started using it every other day. I got a few whiteheads at first, so I waited and waited till my skin adjusted and is pretty clear before I started lessening the use of the cleanser again. (btw, it took 2 weeks for my skin to really get used to using this every other day, but I continued doing this for 2 months just to be safe). Then I started using this once every three days, which lasted for 2 weeks, and then once every 4 days. I wanted to gradually increase to once a week, and then once a month before completely going off it, but on my trip to Korea this time, I forgot to pack this cleanser, and harsh cleansers like this are really hard to find in Korea. So I thought never mind. I got 2 to 3 whiteheads a day for the first few days, but now I'm mostly clear (I haven't had any new breakouts for 48 hours, and my old breakouts are clear). My face is pretty clear except for those hyperpigmentation I had from this cleanser before.
Oh, and another tip is to exfoliate more often. You technically don't need to exfoliate while using cleansers with BP, because it peels off skin for you anyway, so when trying to go off it, you need to exfoliate more. When I was using it once every two weeks, I exfoliated once a week, and now that I'm completely off it, I exfoliate twice a week or three times every two weeks.
Drinking a lot of great green tea from Korea might have also helped. My coworkers here are very friendly, and one gifted me with a generous case of green tea (the best tea in Korea and China are usually not placed in tea bags). The quality is quite similar to the tea my grandmother send me every year, which should be of the top quality, since she pick only the tips of leaves by hand on our relative's tea farm in Southern China.

Footnote: What I write here is my own experience, benzoyl peroxide might work excellently for you, and if it does, please do not discontinue use because of my article.

How to stay fresh after staying up all night?

Hi, ladies! :) Sorry I haven't updated for days. I'm in Korea, and like I thought, the work got more busy those fast few days. I haven't been sleeping a lot either, so I didn't have time to write my blog :( Yes, it is 4:36 a.m. in the morning, and I still haven't slept yet. I am preparing for my presentation early tomorrow morning, hoping to come up with a few more ideas, and I'm exhausted. Those past days, I have been a little obsessed with how to cover up the evidence that my Korean is not as adequate as I thought and that I had stayed up several nights, and sleeping only 10 hours in 3 days. 

However, through my obsession, I came up with a few ways to not look like this:

For me, it's mostly about yellow and rough looking skin, and dark circles. I will address each issue separately. 

Dehydrated Skin: If I haven't slept all night, the morning usually finds me with sallow looking skin that is not really smooth. I used to wonder why, and now I know it's because my skin is dehydrated. I've found a quite effective method to care for my skin so that it looks as if I got 9 hours (my usual amount). 

1. Drink lots of water: I try to drink 8 glasses of water every day generally, but when stay up, I literally hold a cup of water, drinking from it every two to three minutes. I prefer green tea. It also helps me stay awake because I'm constantly raising my hand to my lips. I generally go through 5 kettles of tea in one night, which is about 2 gallons. Yeah....it's a bit crazy, but at least it works. It also keeps me running around every hour for trips to the bathroom, so it keeps me awake.

2. Skincare: If I know I'm going to stay up, I generally wash my face as early as possible, and put on my beloved Laneige white plus renew skincare. I love to get those tablet masks, and soak it in my Laneige White Plus Renew skin refiner for 1 minute, before putting it on my face. I generally leave it on for 30 minutes.  Any longer, it might start to dehydrate me. Then I put on my Laneige white plus renew essence all over my face. Lastly, I put a thick layer of my Laneige white plus renew night cream (twice more than what I usually use each night). 

Of the three, I find the skin refiner and the essence most effective in keeping my skin hydrated. The night cream is also important, but I basically put it there to seal in the moisture on my face. Any other cream will do for this purpose, although I find the night cream adds a little more moisture. 

Dark Circles: My mother used to tell me to put cucumber slices on my eyes when I feel tired. The cooling effect will help me feel more refreshed. I have been doing it for a long time, and it really helps, but not enough when I sleep less than 5 hours. I found another method that really helps for me:

I apply the Laneige white plus renew essence thickly over and under my eyes (mostly under), then soak two cotton pads with Laneige White Plus Renew skin refiner to put over my eyes. I do this for 10 minutes or so when I feel most tired (I'll do it after I finish writing this article) :)

I'm sorry my methods are not that exciting, mostly involving my skincare products, but I like to utilize them whenever possible, especially when they prove to be so effective in this case. :)

Oh, and in the morning, I just go and apply my Laneige base and foundation (not the BB cream), then head on to work. It gives me glowy skin :) 

Laneige White Plus Renew Hydrator SPF15 Review

As promised, I am reviewing all the items I use in my skincare. I wanted to do the White Plus Renew lineup first before I do the cleansers and weekly treatments, etc. because I thought this sounds a bit more logical to me. So anyway, this is the review of the Laneige White Plus Renew Hydrator, which is my daytime moisturizer. It looks awfully like the skin refiner I reviewed yesterday, doesn't it? Yes, they are identical except for the little labels on the bottle.
This hydrator is thicker in texture than most daytime moisturizers you'll find. I would say its texture is really similar to a cream. I don't know how to explain this except that when you get a drop out of the bottle, it comes out in a cylinder, and will stay like a cylinder on your hand for around a minute if you don't touch it. This is partly due to how thick it is. I was really wary at first because of this texture and I used really little in fear that it might be too much for me. My skin also wasn't willing to absorb more than a pea sized amount for my whole face at first, so I only applied a little, thinking that the bottle will last me a long time. Eventually, I started applying more because my skin seemed to be a little more used to it, absorbs more quickly and you know, you apply moisturizer until your skin feels comfortable, and that's what I did. I think I doubled the amount I initially used by now, and I got no breakouts. And no, you don't have to use more and more everyday. I think I have been using the same amount for 4 or 5 months now.
I love this hydrator. This absorbs really fast despite the texture, especially when I apply this after the skin refiner (which I always do now). This has SPF 15 in it, and I think I use enough to get 15, but I still don't rely on it for sun protection, because I don't think SPF 15 is enough and because it didn't offer a PA (UVA protection) value. Like the refiner, this has a heavy scent, which I personally find to be great.

Pros:
1. Very moisturizing
2. Absorbs in a flash
3. not runny at all
4. SPF
5. makes my skin feel plump after applying
Cons:
1. Sensitivity: If you are very sensitive to scents, the scent this carries might irritate your skin or your nose
2. Heavy texture: You might find it too heavy at first, so I suggest using small amounts until your skin is used to it

Overall: I love this product. No skincare item can be absolutely perfect for one's skin unless you customize it, but if I had to choose an already made product, it is this one

My skincare regimen

Many of you have asked about my skincare regimen. I am very flattered that you want to know. I cannot say that  my skincare regimen is absolutely perfect or that is absolutely suits me, because I think that I can't accomplish that with commercialized products, no matter how expensive they might be. Regardless, I thought maybe I should share my regimen with you.
First off, it might help knowing what kind of skin I have. I have mostly normal skin with a slightly oily area around the nose. I have rather light skin, and I am happy with the color. Unlike most people nowadays, I want clear translucent skin that's white white white (but not an unnatural kind of white, just my skin color at birth that is not the least bit tanned).
Now on to the regimen. I use mostly Laneige products right now, even though I used Mamonde products for many years before I finally switched to Laneige. Mamonde is like a brand that costs half as much as Laneige, and is more basic. It was pretty ideal for my young skin.

AM:
Cleanser: I alternate between a clean and clear BP cleanser, a clean and clear SA cleanser, and Laneige's foaming professional cleanser. I am trying to eliminate the BP cleanser from my regimen because I found it causes hyperpigmentation after each pimple heals on me. I'm trying to slowly decrease the use of that cleanser until i don't need it. I will post how it goes because I know going off BP and SA cleansers are difficult moves, but moves that will benefit some skins in the end.

Toner: Yes, I use toner. I am not sure whether it's necessary, but I like the idea of it balancing my PH value. I use the Laneige white plus renew toner.

Moisturizer: I use the Laneige white plus renew daytime hydrator with SPF 15, although I don't rely on it for SPF.

Treatment: I'm trying to introduce the Laneige White plus renew essence into my regimen, but again, changing just a little of your regimen should be done slowly if you don't want to risk reactions. I found that the essence is a little rich, so it might give me some whiteheads as I start to use it, so I'm using it one to two times a week to slowly introduce it to my skin. I plan to use it daily eventually, at least in the colder months when skin is dryer.

SPF: I use the Laneige SPF 41 PA++ sunblock on most days and SPF 50 PA+++ sunblock when I know I'm going to be outdoors a lot. I touch up with the Laneige powder sunscreen 15 minutes before I go outside. It also controls some oil on my face.

Facial makeup: I made the conscious decision to not use makeup base or foundation even though they give some a glow to my face. I don't use them daily, but whenever there is a special occasion, I go with my trustworthy Laneige dual base and white plus renew foundation. There is one exception to the rule though. Whenever I test BB creams or products for review, I use them exclusively for two weeks or so.

PM:
My night time regimen is pretty simple.
Makeup remover: If I'm just wearing sunblock, I don't use a makeup remover. However, when I'm testing BB creams or wore foundation for any special occasions, I remove makeup with Laneige oil free makeup remover. It is similar to a cleansing oil but thicker in consistency, and I feel safer because it's oil free. I'll review this soon if you are interested.
Cleanser: I made the transition half a year ago into using Laneige Multi Cleanser. It makes my face squeeky clean, which can be drying at times, but I immediately follow with toner and moisturizer. Just in case you were wondering, I was using the clean and clear BP wash and SA wash before I made the transition.
Toner: I use a toner that I make myself, and I am 100% satisfied with it. I think one day, I might make my own skincare for myself (and not for commercial use) so that I can know all the ingredients that goes into it, and enjoys the peace of mind.
Moisturizer: I used to use no moisturizer at night because I thought I don't need it, but I found doing cleanser, toner and moisturizer in the morning and at night is better for my skin. I use the Laneige White plus renew night cream. I love it, and I'm about to pick up more this time in Korea.

Weekly treatments: When I finally get off BP completely, I will use Laneige's strawberry yogurt peel, but right now, my skin doesn't need any more exfoliation. I will follow up with some homemade strawberry yogurt.

Oh and I just realized that I haven't actually reviewed my beloved skincare items yet, but don't worry, I will very soon.

Tubing Mascara, and the start of my quest for the perfect tubing mascara

I am sure most of my frequent readers would know that I LOVE tubing mascara and eyeliners. Ever since I  came of age, I tried to find a mascara that would give me those long beautiful lashes, only to find that most mascaras smudge mercilessly on me, even the most smudge proof ones. After several years, I gave up, until L'Oreal marketed its new product called L'Oreal Beauty Tubes. There was a promotion going on, so I thought why not? I got a tube, and I was hooked. The mascara stayed there with no smudges until I removed it, and it comes off in tubes with warm water, relieving my worries that it would irritate my lashes or cause fall offs.

I was very pleased for one year, but then thought, there must be better ones out there. This is when I came across fiberwig, a mascara that gives more length than L'Oreal Beauty Tubes. This eventually became my HG item, but I am still looking for a mascara that might give me more. Therefore, I am going on a quest to try mostly every tubing mascara out there, review them every week, and find one that fits me perfectly. I hope that by sharing my quest with you, you can find one that you love as well. But perhaps, I am getting ahead of myself, and should first explain what is tubing mascara.

What is tubing mascara?


Tubing mascara is a kind of mascara that slide off with warm water in tubes. It is generally smudge free, and water resistant (given that the water is cold). This new kind of mascara prevents you from having to use eye makeup removers and a few minutes of rubbing to take off mascaras. The application method is generally different from regular mascaras. You cannot wait for the coats to dry before adding more coats, or you increase the chance of clumping (versus you have to wait for each coat to dry before adding more to prevent clumping for regular mascaras)

What are some tubing mascaras?


I am trying to create a full list, but so far, I have:
1. fiberwig Original
2. blinc kiss me mascara
3. L'Oreal beauty tubes
4. Clinique High impact curling
5. Clinique Lash Power
5. TF Lash Injection
6. Cargo Texas Lash
7. Bobbi Brown Perfectly Defined
8. Trish McEvoy Lash Curling Mascara
9. Fiberwig XL

In the next few weeks, I will try to review each and every one of them, in order to help myself and you to find the perfect tubing mascara. Let me know if I should include some tubing mascaras available only in Japan and Korea (and ebay) as well.

What skincare habits you should definitely form

Okay, confession time, I am a skincare addict. I started having skincare regimen when I was 10 years old, and my mother started smothering moisturizer and sunscreen on my face before I even turned 1 year old. I remember that when I went swimming with my friends when I was in primary school, my friends would jump in to the pool/sea, and I would stay in the locker room patiently waiting for my mother to smother sunblock on me and wait for the requisite 15 minutes for it to absorb. Or when my friend come to my house for a surprise visit past 8:30 p.m., they would more often than not scream when me or my mother open the door because our face is covered in masks. There are many similar anecdotes like that.

My friends often ask me if this regimen I'm keeping is too troublesome, and I must admit that it really is. It's hard to devote so much time and energy to your skin, and avoid doing some things that most people enjoy in deference to your skin, but I think it pays off. My mother is now almost 50 years old, and she has yet to see one wrinkle or one piece of sagging skin. Whenever we go shopping together, most people refer to her as my sister rather than mother. Some of my readers have asked what skincare habits I have, and I decided to share this article. There are a few habits that are crucial in my opinion, and also many more which others deem to be important, but I personally doesn't think is that important, and I'll explain why.

What I think is crucial:
1. Sun care: "I cannot stress how important suncare is to a girl" my mother used to tell me, and her mother used to tell her. My grandmother is a Manchurian and her family believed that it was proper for a girl to stay indoors at all times. It was partly because they wanted to prevent her skin from coming in contact with the sun and other harmful substances, and also partly because they were overtly conservative, and wanted to prevent her from coming in contact with people they don't want her to know or know too well. Regardless, my grandmother stayed indoors, and generally stayed in a well shielded carriage whenever she had to travel. When it is absolutely necessary to walk, she carries a parasol, and wear long sleeved clothing that covers everything except her hands and face. She passed on this good habit to my mother, who reinforced it before giving it to me.
My mother always tell me to try to use sunblock everyday on all areas of exposed skin, reapply every two hours, use a SPF higher than 30 and PA +++. "Do not leave any skin out" she always tells me. I have quite a few lip balms with SPF in it to wear, and now, I try to choose lip colors with SPF whenever possible. Easy to neglect areas are your ears, and back of your neck. Your scalp might also be a susceptible area for some, but for me, it's always well covered by my hair.  Whenever possible, she would prefer that I wear hats and carry a parasol. 


2. Wash off everything you put on your face before the end of the day: My mother always told me that it's okay if I want to wear makeup (as long as I make it natural), but I shouldn't if I'm not responsible enough to take it off at the end of the day. Make sure that before bed, remove every trace of makeup you put on that day. It doesn't matter how tired you are, you have to do it. The Japanese like to do a double cleansing to remove heavy facial makeup, I find it unnecessary for me currently because I don't use foundation that much, and my Laneige multi-cleanser is quite enough to remove my sunblock. However, when in doubt, do the "toner test". Put toner on a cotton pad and then wipe across your face, if the toner comes out clean, you did your job of removing all trace of makeup. If it come up yellow, it's generally foundation. Pink is generally blush, and gray is generally sunscreen or sweat. 


3. Do not touch your face whenever possible: Our hands is the part of our body that comes in contact with the most substances, and consequently, the most germs. Try to keep those hands away from your face. If you must, wash your hands and sanitize before touching your face. Also, holding your face or touching it constantly might bring on wrinkles, which is something you didn't don't want. It might also smear your makeup if you are wearing any. 
If you have trouble developing this habit, try putting on a soft mask (soft mask means masks that do not dry) for 3 hours.  Honey is often quite effective and beneficial. Whenever your naughty hands come in contact with your face, you will have to wash it. (with honey, you can't even wipe it clean on a papertowel). 
If you develop this habit, you will be more conscious next time before picking on a pimple also.


4. Do not put anything you don't know well on your face: Your face is the worst place to experiment. Whenever I get a new skincare item, I would put it behind my ear for some time, and if it had no reactions, only then would I apply it to my face.When I want to try on foundations or other items before buying, I generally think about it, check the reviews and the ingredients. I would never try something on by impulse. Also, if someone gives you a bottle of something that has functioned well on your skin, check the expiration date and whether the seal is broken before actually using it. I know this might sound hurtful to some friends, so do it privately. I trust and love all my friends too, but I just feel safer double checking anything that comes in contact with my face.

That's mostly everything I deem absolutely necessary. I know you would be bewildered because I said nothing about toners, moisturizers, exfoliants, cleansers and most importantly, developing a regimen. This is because I do not believe this is absolutely necessary for everyone.

Cleansers: My mother lived though an era where all the cleansers are super harsh, so you either do without or over clean. My mother chose the former, and just washed with water, unless she wore foundation (which is something she rarely did), and she still has beautiful skin.

Moisturizers: Skin has a natural ability to moisturize. Sometimes developing a regimen takes away or diminishes that natural ability. It is up to you whether you want to regulate your moisturization, or let you skin do the work (which it does wrong occasionally). I like to regulate it myself, but using your skin's natural ability is a good option as well. However, it is absolutely necessary to use moisturizers when you moved into a drier climate or is in a drier area that what your skin is generally used to. It can take your skin some time to adapt, and you should aid your skin during this transition period. 


Exfoliants: Some dermatologist, including the one who opened up dermtv, believe that exfoliants are essential. Some even believe that exfoliants should be used daily. Is it true? I'm not an expert, so I cannot comment on that, but like moisturization, skin has a natural ability to exfoliate, only it does not do it as regularly as some people deem necessary. It generally takes 28 days for a full cycle of exfoliation, and that is quite sufficient in my opinion. However, if you would like to have softer skin for some special occasions, go ahead and use that exfoliant. Or if you have some tanned skin that you want to go away fast, go ahead and exfoliate. Just do not do it too often. 


Toners: Yes, I use toners. In US, they are marketed as a fall back safe guard almost to have your face clean. In Asia, they are marketed as something that balance the ph value and may contain some acids that does some mild exfoliation. I use the Asian kind, since I believe some American kinds are too harsh. There is no research done to prove that it is absolutely necessary to balance the PH level of your skin for you to have good skin, but I do it anyway because I know it can't be harmful at least. If you are using the US kind however, I think they are unnecessary if you use the same amount of makeup and the same capable cleanser everyday (try not to actually rely your toner to remove anything). But it can't harm to use it, as long as you moisturize. 


Okay, I am sorry for this horribly long article, and I hope it is helpful to some people.